The Voyage Ends

Day 68   14 March
Port Everglades, Fla. USA

 The ship was secured at about 0700 and immediately the turn around began.  Our bags had been picked up last night and whisked away so all we had to do was have breakfast, make last farewells and wait to be called to leave the ship. That call came at 0915. No bands, no ceremony, just get off the ship.

 Customs and immigration went smoothly with little waiting. This is very different from the fiasco we encountered in 2011 after the world voyage when most passengers were herded into the warehouse, made to wait for an hour + without adequate seating, then to be examined by an untrained official.

 We found our ground transportation (FedEx for our bags, bus and taxi for us) and began the journey home.

The voyage covered 18,000 nautical miles according to the television map upon arrival. We visited 15 countries or protectorates in 68 days, not including the US.

 It is unfortunate the ship underwent an immediate turn around as much maintenance was needed.


Note: To enlarge photos, click on the photo.  To follow events from the beginning, use the calendar on the right and begin in January.

At Sea

Day 67; 13 March

We finished packing and getting our stateroom in order for departure. Anything we can do to make the turn-around easier for our cabin stewards Sopto and Yulius will be a reward for the outstanding job they did for us on this voyage.

 The culinary staff held an outdoor barbecue as we sailed past Cuba. Steak, ribs, fish, chicken and sausages grilled over charcoal gave a taste of America to the end of the voyage.

 Dinner was especially raucous tonight and everyone was doing their parting hugs and handshakes. (Normally there is little handshaking or hugging due to people having colds or flu.) Our table is between two tables of Aussies with three Canadian couples mixed in. We were all laughing and switching tables and having a grand time. The staff had a baked Alaska parade through the dining room then a few table side songs. It was a fine finish. Our dining room stewards Thomas and Kadek were outstanding and our wine steward Neil as well. The crew really makes the voyage special.

 The temperature is dropping now and a sweater is good for going on deck. Tomorrow morning we make port and, leave the ship and head home.

The noon report: 22 degrees 04.42'N and 077 degrees 17.85'W. Depth 1710 meters. Speed 17 knots. Course 288 degrees. Sea state 4. Water temp 28C/82F. Air temp 24C/75F. Humidity 75%. Wind SW 6 (3). Distance covered: 17,693 nautical miles. Noon to noon 407 nautical miles. Sunrise 0719. Sunset 1917.

At Sea

Day 66; 12 March

It is quiet which may be due to yesterday's sail away party as well as this being the time to pack for the end of the voyage.

 All  morning we sailed past the Dominican Republic and later Haiti. Blue sky, blue seas, warm temperature and very little motion makes this an ideal day.

 This is the last formal night of the voyage so we had a steak dinner in the Pinnacle and took in a show after.

Noon report: Position 19 degrees 55.52'N and 070 degrees 24.18'W. Course 287. Speed 16 knots. Humidity 75%. Sunrise (I missed that) Sunset 1850. Depth 1270 meters. Water temp 28C/82F. Air temp 24C/75F. Wind E 16knots. Sea state 4. Distance covered: 17,286 nautical miles. Noon to noon run of 349 nm. 

Roadtown, Tortola BVI

Day 65 , 11 March

A beautiful set of islands and islets and many sailboats. So many sailboats it reminds me of the Apostle Islands on the 4^th of July. Every bay and cove is loaded with boats. 

 

The new cruise ship pier had a slot for us and we backed in, port side to the pier. (Our cabin in port side.) Immediately across from us was the Royal Caribbean Vision of the Seas, which blocked our vision of everything. In fact, their balconies and upper decks overlooked ours so we had to keep our draperies closed for any privacy. This would be a one ambulance port as one of our shipmates was taken away.

We think we have been here before, but to another part of this island so we just walked a few blocks. It is a holiday here (Commonwealth Day). The two ships in port provided many tourists to the streets and the shops that were open. Early afternoon we boarded a motorboat with about 20 other shipmates and went off on a snorkeling expedition to Norman Island. (Norman Island was made famous in R. L. Stevenson's Treasure Island.) That was a busy spot and we had to wait a bit to get a spot to anchor. That allowed a ½ hour swim. Then we removed to a large bay filled with anchored charter boats and private boats and yachts. The beach there was crowded so we snorkeled down from the beach for another ½ hour. Then we sped back to the ship and were aboard at 1630. 

Prinsendam (left)

 

For sail-away, this being the last of the voyage, a gala bash was held on the pool deck 'midships and the upper deck. A band played from the upper deck, food staff worked the crowd of several hundred with trays of spring rolls and two bars served up free champagne, wine, beer, rum punch and many other offerings. The noise grew and scuttlebutt has it the Captain of the Vision asked our Captain to keep it down. No deal. The other ship does not do sail-aways and their passengers lined their decks waving at us and enjoying the spectacle, enjoying our music as well. (Imagine the scene of several hundred retired people slurping beverages, dancing a conga line, jumping in the pool fully clothed, dancing on the open decks and laughing and having a great time as the ship blew 3 blasts and sailed straight out from the pier.) It was a great departure which resulted in a nearly empty dining room later.

With our departure from Tortola the voyage is on the final leg. Now it is just a matter of 2 days at sea sailing back to Port Everglades, Florida. The final posting will be made after arrival.

Bourg de Saintes, Terre de Haut, Îles-Les-Saintes

Day 64, 10 March

Bourg de Saintes, Terre de Haut, Îles-Les-Saintes

Nice grouping of eight islands off Guadeloupe's Basse-Terre and Grand-Terre islands, this is our target for the day, or at least for the morning. We anchored a good ways out in the passage and awaited the usual French approach to clearing the ship. (Or is it the French/island way?) This is a Sunday so there is no telling what we will find to do on the island. I am certain the locals and the visiting yachties will look with scorn upon our invasion. Se la vie! By 0905, 1 hour past intended time, the ship was cleared for shore and so off we went.

Sea Cloud

After a 20 minute tender ride to shore we disembarked to find the little business district ready for our onslaught' most shops were open and the restaurants were setting tables and cooling beer. The narrow main street was lined with clothing and jewelry shops selling island/resort wear and restaurants touting cool beer and hot fish lunch. French is the language of the island though most merchants spoke English and/or Spanish. The merchants we spoke to were pleasant and welcoming and the locals were not casting dark looks at us.

The bay was well stocked with sailboats, tour, taxi and fishing boats. But the most magnetic sight of all upon the bay was the magnificent 316' sailing ship Sea Cloud, built in 1931 for EF Hutton and was for awhile the largest yacht in the world. (See also www.seacloud.com ) A little later a 3 masted French charter boat came in and anchored. 

 

Having wandered about for a couple of hours we returned to the ship. Reports from other passengers indicate most had a fine time with their excursions, being at or in the sea or viewing the island from a mini van or taxi. Our “all aboard” time was extended by an hour to make up for lost time this morning so we will burn more fuel tonight to speed up our transit to the next island. After leaving the islands we passed the Sea Cloud returning from an afternoon sail and in the distance crossing our bow was the Windspirit under sail. Quite a sight, 2 large sailing vessels at once.

Tonight we have a dinner with friends from the 2011 World Voyage.

Bridgetown, Barbados

Day 63, 9 March

This began as a fine day with sunny sky, light sea and recognizable heat. No bugs. We tied up to the pier at 0715, port side to the island which gave us a great view of.......warehouses and containers. An additional treat for the view is of the top of the stadium and several oil tanks.

Our plans for a day of sailing on a catamaran were changed as the side trip was cancelled. We didn't really care for the other offerings, having done a few of them before, including touring the island by car, so that left the option of walking downtown. About 9am we jumped ship and walked down the pier to the cruise terminal. That was interrupted by the arrival at the pier of the 5 masted square rigged ship Royal Clipper, which required my attention for her docking in front of us. In addition, another ship is in port, the 4 masted stays'l rigged Windspirit. Both ships are smaller than the Prinsendam. Our Captain Roberts was once Master of the Windspirit and during the day he went back aboard her for a visit.

That interruption having been dealt with we proceeded into the fine cruise terminal which is lined with gift shops, duty-free liquor stores and duty free jewelery stores. Typical of the islands we are cruising into, as I wrote yesterday. Not a Bajun chicken sandwich or rum punch to be found, though. Our crew and many passengers were excited to find free wi-fi in the terminal, the crew, especially, because they can contact their families with Skype and texting and video transfers. We poked around as the temperature rose then went back to the ship. I suppose we could have tracked down that chicken sandwich but the thought of traipsing several blocks down town or taking a cab somewhere on the island didn't rate high on the list of desirables for the day. As it turned out, many others did the same as we had and just made a leisurely day of it.

Windspirit

Position at noon: 13° 06.13'N and 059° 37.12'W at the pier. Distance this voyage 16,473 nm. Days run 300 nm. Sunrise 0609, sunset 0608. Water temp 28C 82F. Air temp 25C, 77F. Humidity 75%. It felt much hotter than that and must have been in the 80's.

Royal Clipper

At 1725 we backed out of the basin, turned and headed to sea, still in the Atlantic. A beautiful evening with very gentle motion and bright stars (not the medical alert). The Indonesian crew gave us a crew show at 2300 featuring song, music and dance from their homeland. They were very proud and had a fun time doing the performance. It is as much a spirit lifting experience for them as it was for us. 

 

At Sea

Day 62; 8 March

At Sea

A fine day at sea and nothing in sight other than sea and sky. We have begun packing for our return so the last day will not be so busy.

Lunch today was a special occasion in the Pinnacle, featuring Indonesian cuisine.

The position report is as of 1330 hours, as at noon I was slurping soto ayam.

09° 27.63'N by 056° 16.17'W. Course 320°. Speed 17.6k. Wind NE 15 (force 4). Depth 3,420meters.

Water temp 28C/82F. Air temp 25C/77F. Sunrise 0655. Sunset 1856. The Guiana current is giving us a push at 1.4 knots. 

The coming days will run into one another as the Grand Voyage now becomes a Caribbean cruise with port after port after port. This is nothing new, but is like going to town to go shopping because you have nothing else to do.

 

Day 61; 7 March Îles du Salut, French Guiana

Day 61; 7 March

Îles du Salut, French Guiana

The three islands hove into view as soon as the sun was up and by 0710 we arrived off the largest, Île Royale. Anchoring took awhile, from 0745 to 0830. The other two islands are Île du Diable (Devil's Island) and Île Ste-Joseph. The most notorious is Devils' Island. The three are separated by narrow channels of strong currents and hungry sharks. 

 

The island has a small hotel based in the former Warder's barracks and is also home to the European Space Agency's tracking station for space launches out of nearby Guiana.

These islands off the coast of French Guiana were a penal colony from 1852 until 1946. The three could accommodate 2,000 prisoners at a time and over the life of the prison, some 80,000 prisoners had been sent there. Only some 30,000 survived. The dead prisoners were thrown to the sea where the sharks took care of the remains. The warders who died were buried on Île Ste Joseph. The children on Île Royale. Conditions were so bad that being sent there was practically a death sentence. Escape was prevented by the strong currants and sharks that surround the islands. Sadistic prison guards made life even more difficult for the prisoners. This was truly the end of the world for french criminals, political prisoners and for many guards and Wardens. The book and subsequent movie Papillon was based on survivors accounts.

gap between Royale & Devil's

Ile Royale

Ile Ste Joseph

To get ashore we boarded a tender, going in at 0915. The Captain advised us that the cruise ship AidaVita was also coming in to visit the island with some 1,000 passengers. We went ashore early to avoid the flood. We walked the island (there is no transportation other than a few maintenance vehicles) for 2 hours and took in the beauty and horror of the place. We watched monkeys gather fruit and the local rodent Agoutis that look like giant guinea pigs with long legs. I paid a visit to the decrepit Children's cemetery. We walked through the ruins of the solitary confinement and the condemned cells, past the living quarters for the married Warders, past the great reservoir, visited the semaphore station and to the hotel. The hotel bar was popular and cold drinks were selling well. The hotel gift shop did a great business as well. We next took in the Commandant's house/museum and back to the landing for a tender ride back to the ship. 

find the monkey

children's cemetery

children's cemetery

the trail

Cell block for Solitary

Cell block for condemned prisoners

cells for condemned

Warder's barracks now a hotel

Commandant's house

view of Devil's Island

the prisoners built the walkways and stairs

Devil's Island

 We were back aboard by about 1130 in time for a brats 'n beer cookout on the after deck. By then the other ship was running 4 tenders between ship and shore so we avoided the crush. At 1810 we retrieved our anchor and followed the Vita out to sea. Our course will be northerly now with the next port to be Bridgetown, Barbados. First, a sea day tomorrow.

See also www.tourisme-guyane.com .

http://mapcarta.com/19106574

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Île_Royale