Straits of Magellan

Day 26, 30 January

We had entered the Straits from the West before sunrise so when I finally peered out at 0730 we were flanked by islands. It was gray and cool but we bundled up and took a walk around the ship on the upper deck for the vista then around the lower Promenade Deck to watch for sea life. Then to the 12^th deck enclosed observation room (Crow's Nest) where we could sit with a 180° view ahead. Several sea lions were observed off our starboard side and a few penguins porpoising. (We saw none of this). Back to the cabin to observe the vista passing by, sea lions emerging now and then and an occasional work boat or ship passing. Now and then in the distance snow capped mountains would appear. It rained.

Noon report: 53° 18.52'S, 073° 07.54'W. Wind NW 22k (6), Seas 5. Noon to noon 397nm. Total voyage 6,513nm. Sunset 2153 hrs. 

 

At 1500 the ship slowed for an hour as we passed an area of whale activity. The bridge reported whales spouting but from our vantage point they had sounded by the time the ship reached that point.

At 1720 (5:20pm) we passed, on our left, a promontory topped with a huge frame of a cross. This, the bridge announced, was the Cross of the Oceans and marked the Southern most point of the continent of South America. All land formations to the South of us are islands.

Cross of the Oceans (on upper right)

About 2100 we anchored off the city of Punta Arenas. Once a penal colony, this settlement became the major refitting and repair port for ships passing the Straits or Cape Horn prior to the construction of the Panama Canal. It still has some ship building and repair facilities, has both naval and air-force stations and a modern airport. A new hospital was opened just 2 years ago. 

View of Punta Arenas and MS Antarctic Dream

 

Day 24; At Sea off Patagonia

 29 January

Noticeable pitching last night which is part of shipboard life. It is kind of pleasant, actually. The seas were clear of white caps this morning and the sun rose over the mountains 20 miles off our port side. This being a sea day it was quiet and restful. By afternoon it became cloudy and mid afternoon we had some light rain. Still the pitching. The swells are long and about 11' deep. At one pm today the Captain reported on last night's krill episode during his daily report from the bridge.

Noon reports includes: Position 47° 34.87'S / 076° 16.77'W. Turning 15.2 knots. Depth 10,700' .

Course 183°. Noon to noon run 256 nm. Total voyage 6,116 nm.

At 1530 this afternoon we slowed to allow engine cooling intakes to be cleared of krill again, as we had passed through another patch of the “little blighters” (to quote Captain Roberts). Starboard engine was cleared and off we went again. Radio reports from fishing boats indicate many are having to stop and clear their intakes. Because of this krill situation we will miss the intended Amalia Glacier and proceed off shore to the Straits of Magellan.

This is disappointing to miss an attractive part of a voyage but it must be accepted as part of travel. We have missed calls on other trips due to local disenchantment, revolution, threats of war, being outbid for a reserved berth and for the whims of mother nature. Safety of the ship and passengers is of prime concern and for that I am grateful.

It was a busy night with the pitching and rolling. With all or our gear secured there was little noise within our cabin, but plenty outside; a few loud thumps and some minor crashing as things in the midships service area settled.

Puerto Chacabuco

Day 23; 28 January. Puerto Chacabuco

Another dawn surprise with a view of snow capped mountains not far away. We had entered the Chilean Fiordo Aisén in Northern Patagonia. Slowly we cruised to the Eastern end of the Fiordo and dropped the hook at 0700 off the port town of Chacabuco. This port became the major area port in the 1960's after a tsunami devastated the port of Aisén up the Rio Aisén from Chacabuco. In 1991 there were more devastating fires in Patagonia and then the eruption of Mt. Hudson practically closed the Rio Aikén to navigation. All around us are the mountains of Northern Patagonia. Most are heavily forested with backdrop ranges of rocky snow covered peaks. The Fiords of Chile are magnificent.

Julie went on an excursion along the Simpson River and it's valley to the town of Coyhaique “Gateway to unspoiled Patagonia.”

I went with a group to a private park and reserve Aikén del Sur to hike the valley in this thickly forested range. Our guide pointed out aspects of the flora and fauna This is a temperate forest and can receive 10' of precipitation a year. Following a stream we worked up the hillside learning about the trees, bushes, grasses and birds along the way. From an opening in the forest we could see mountains and valleys beyond, many of which have been untouched and unexplored, at least by modern man, according to our guide. In much of the territory there are no roads or trails so transportation is non-existent except by air. About 70km South the glacial ice fields of Northern Patagonia begin. At the end of our trek was a dining area overlooking Lago Riesco. Split lamb, skewered on iron stakes roasted in a wood fire pit while local dancers whirled and stamped traditional dances to Andean music. The lamb lunch was washed down with Chilean wines and the ever present Pisco Sour. About 1400 the group headed back to the ship.

At 1710 our anchor came up and we began re-tracing our route up the Fiordo Aisén but this time in daylight. Sunset at this time is about 2140. (9:40pm) The trip down the Fiordo was impressive with the mountains flanking us, our passing close to some islands and the observing of the occasional fish pen and always a snow capped peak appearing. There are 3,000 or more islands in this archipelago. At 1945 we entered the Rodriguez channel and passed through that narrow and deep channel with the islands towering over the ship. At 2050 we entered the Darwin Channel and were soon working our Westward toward the Pacific. (Note: We have on board a fiord or channel pilot and an ice pilot.) We watched this panorama until the sun sank beyond the channel and islands ahead of us.

As we emerged late this night into the Pacific we entered an area heavy with krill coming up from Antarctica in the Humbolt current. These small shrimp and a favorite of whales(toxic to people) but posed a problem for our vessel. The pumps for our generators powering our air conditioning and ventilation became clogged with krill and had to be shut down so the filters could be cleared. Engine cooling intake filters had to be cleared out as well. (We were not without propulsion for a minute.) The local ferry Captain reported the same problem. Due to this large area of krill, our Captain decided to take us further offshore in clear waters for our run South.

Noon report: 45 degrees 26.38'S and 072 degrees 49.59'W   Total voyage 5860 nm.

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Isla Chiloé,Chile

Day 22, 27 January Isla Chiloé,Chile

Port of Castro

We crept up the channel from the coast and must have anchored for awhile. By dawn we had breakfast come to the cabin and watched the daylight come to the city of Castro. We dropped the hook in the channel and for awhile our side of the ship was toward the town. Small coastal freighters and many fishing boats lay at anchor or beached with the low tide. The brightly yellow and grape colored Iglesia de San Francisco (1906) dominates the skyline. This is the second longest island in South America and is another UNESCO World Heritage site.

View of Puerto Castro from our cabin

At 0830 we caught a boat ashore and began our tour of the day. First off we rode to the town of Dalcahue where we caught a ferry for a five minute transfer to the next island, Isla Quinchao. We stopped in a small fishing town of Curaco de Velez. This was once a thriving port but is now a sleepy small village. We were expecting the museum to be open and locals to be there selling their wool items, but it is Sunday morning and the streets were empty. (Except 2 bus loads of tourists.) So we walked the town waterfront and chatted with a few residents, who were quite friendly and welcoming. One lady opened her woolen goods shop just before our departure and I was able to buy a fine Chilean wool cap for the upcoming visit to the colder climate.

After a 10 mile ride through the countryside we got off in the town of Achao, which was founded about 1743. It's church, dating from 1730, was an interesting visit, being made of wood and still standing. Crude and simple but most interesting. Here there is no gilt and glitz of the wealthier churches in Latin America. We found an open market with more local goods of wool. Before we could hit the grocery store (a favorite stop in every country we visit) we detoured to a local restaurant for a libation of Pisco Sour (again), freshly made snacks, a lively local band and traditional dancing. The Pisco made the lively event even more lively. The band played traditional music on accordion, guitar, drum and horse jaws while a couple of children danced. Pretty soon the whole family was dancing and a few of our group joined in also. (Remember Pisco)

Back to the road again and at 1245 were were crossing via ferry back to Dalcahue to find the town had come alive for Sunday market. The square along the waterfront was packed with vendors and locals and tourists. Shops were open, restaurants were churning out seafood lunches and the sounds and smells against the backdrop of the channel was exciting. We visited the local church here as another historical site; this one also of wood and built in the mid 18thy century. Plain and old and stately. I loved it.

Once we rounded up our shipmates we made it back on-board without mishap. A quick lunch, a short snooze then departure came at 1700. We didn't get far. The Captain reported on the PA that we had snagged a cable with our anchor and would have a slight delay in departure. Actually it did not take long for the port authority sent a boat out to collect the junk hanging from our hook and we proceeded on our way down the channel. This area is a maze of islands and the channels between them are heavy with mussel works and various nets and traps. We got through just fine and took up a southerly course to head down this “inland waterway” toward our next adventure.

buoys for mussle farming

We have had on-board for two days now, in preparation for the upcoming waters, both a Fjord Pilot and and Ice Pilot. That suggests something interesting awaits. There is a likelihood that posts to this commentary may be irregular in the coming week and we get deeper South.

Day 21; Sea Day

Noon position 39° 11.21S and 075° 37.09W. Course 153°. Speed 18.5 knots. Total voyage 5333 nm.

Being a sea day it is time for rest and planning for the coming ports of call. The extra time allows for the editing of photos and updating the personal log. A lecture on the next two ports of call was attended.

The cocktail/dinner/entertainment part of the day called for formal attire which takes just a bit longer to prepare for than the usual smart casual attire. Tonight we enjoyed watching dolphins cavort and other fish dart out of the sea from the comfort of our window side dining room table. A full moon arose over the mountains of the mainland which made a spectacular view. At 2215 we passed another cruise ship, headed North. (I couldn't make her out but will try to ID the stack later). 2300 we entered the islands. We may have anchored for awhile, or just proceeded dead slow.

Day 20, Isla Robinson Crusoe

Isle Robinson Crusoe, Chile

The arrival was early morning, before sunrise. When I awoke and peered outside we were anchored in Cumberland Bay under huge cliffs. Another desolate location to add to our collection. A small village (San Juan Bautista) perched on the waterfront and hillside. A single concrete pier stuck into the bay. Small buildings of wood lined the few streets and the mouths of caves dotted the hillside a block up. There were no organized activities or tours ashore here; no guides, no vendors of local products, no taxi. In fact, few people appeared at all. The major activity would be to hike to the caves or hike to the mountain top; a damp prospect today.

Highlights of the island are 1) The cave of Alejandro Selkirk (Robinson Crusoe), The Patriot Caves (from ), The old Spanish Fort, the Pirate Fort. None of these we saw. Swells had kicked up which made transferring from ship's boats to the pier a dangerous endeavor and Captain Roberts decided to halt the operation. Some friends who had made it ashore earlier reported that indeed the boarding of the boat for the return was difficult. A small local freighter which had been unloading at the single pier moved off and anchored to await a calming of the seas. The conditions did not improve so many of us did not make it to shore.

This remote island was first recorded in 1574. In 1704 a pirate Alejandro Selkirk was marooned on this isle, which inspired the 1719 novel “Robinson Crusoe”by Daniel Defoe. In 1779 the Spanish built a fort on the island to protect it from pirates. In 1814 freedom fighters fled to the island after the disaster of Rancagua during the Chilean independence movement and lived in what are now known as the Patriot Caves. In 1915 the German battleship Dresden was sunk in Cumberland Bay where we anchored. (Many of her sailors are buried on the island.) The highest peak of the island is 3,000' high.

In 1966 the government changed the name of the Island from Más a Tierra, or Aguas Buenas, to Isla Róbinson Crusoe. In 1935 much of the island was designated a National Park. In 1977 the archipelago was designated a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve.

At 1630 we pulled our hook and headed out of the bay. The Captain announced we would circle the island North and West sides, avoiding the many floats marking lobster pots. (This island is known for harvesting spiny lobsters.)

At Sea

Day 19
  Some pitching during the night. This morning was cloudy and misting. By mid morning we were rolling a bit, despite stablilizers and the mild pitching continued; not uncomfortable. Other than the mid day report, that's it for now.
Noon position: 33degrees 17.26'S and 075 degrees 08.19'W. Course 259. Speed 10.7k. Depth 4260. Total voyage 4,775 nautical miles.

Day 18; Valparaiso, Chile

We made port about 0645 under cloudy sky and cooler temps. Again we tied up with the port side of the ship out so our cabin had a view of the harbor and a part of the port and city. The other side had a view of a mountain of containers.

view from our deck

This day's adventures began with a ride through part of the city then onto the Pan-American Highway, which here is 4 lane freeway and reminded me much of Washington State. After a nice long drive we came to the Casablanca Valley and through vineyards to the Vina Mar vineyard. There we had a fine tour and tasting. Although production has moved to another facility, this site is a fine stop.

With a morning wine tasting under our belts we rode off to the ranch Puro Caballo, a bit out of the way but well worth the travel. This place gets high ratings on Trip Advisor. We were greeted by men and women in traditional costume and escorted to an outdoor reception where we were provided with Pisco Sours, Vino and empanadas. Horses were calling each other from the adjacent stalls and a mounted team demonstrated a few of the characteristics of the horses. Next came a display of horse and rider prowess at a nearby ring. These specially bred and trained horses are magnificent animals. Following the show we moved to the dining room for a fine lunch of roast on potatoes, salad fixings and more local vino, followed by traditional music and dance.

Back to Valparaiso we went to the Museo Fonck for a look at a great display of artifacts from Easter Island (Rapa Nui.)

A Moai statue from Easter Island

Another fine ride through the city and into the terminal, another switch of transportation and a shuttle to the ship. There was plenty to watch as shipping came and went and the container yard was busy and noisy. At 1830 we let the lines go and were pulled away from the pier by a tug, turned around and headed out to sea. By now the sun had come out (briefly). Once to sea the clouds came back and visibility dropped, but not so much as to prevent me from spotting part of the Chilean Naval fleet heading toward port. 4 warships and their oiler. The minesweeper preceded them into port about the time we were leaving.

Noon Report: position (in port) 33° 02.13'S / 071° 37.64'W, noon to noon run 208nm, total voyage 4,592 nm.