At Sea and River Cruising

Day 53

We slipped out into the Atlantic last night, moved Northward then re-entered the delta in the North channel of the Rio Amazona. Crossing the 20 mile wide bar required the retraction of our stabilizers so we had a fine ride with plenty of rolling. In fact, during breakfast a particular roll caused trays of glasses and dished to crash to the deck and serving containers on the food line to require immediate attention by servers to prevent them from joining the plates and glasses. As we are going to proceed up the river we will not be making water for a few days so a water restriction is being applied, limiting laundry.

By noon land was visible on both sides. The water is murky and branches and floating vegetation is plentiful. The positon report shows we are back in the Northern latitudes. 00° 42.92'N , 050° 18.31W. Wind E 21 (6). Sea 2. Speed 17.3k, Course 200°. Sunrise 0630, sunset 1836. Temp air 30c 86F, (*at 1300 91F) temp water 28C 82F. Humidity 72%. Distance 13,814njm. Noon-noon 286nm.

The flood tide is helping us upriver. That will change. At 1540 we were off Macapa where we cleared back into Amazonia (having been briefly in the Atlantic), anchored and awaited our two Amazon Pilots who were flying in. They will each maintain 5 hour watches on the bridge to advise our navigation and bridge team. With their arrival about 1800 we headed up river and now against the river current.

A mystery theme dinner was held in the Pinnacle tonight which provided the best food and entertainment.

Belém, Brazil

Day 52, 26 February

Belém, Brazil

Amazonia

We came in on the southern channel of Rio Amazonas which looked very much like the entry to Rio in that this is wide and not like entering a river but more like a continuation of ocean except for the cappuccino colored water. At about 0845 we dropped our hook in a bay NE of the city of Belém, off the fishing village of Icoaracy. Due to the draft of the Prinsendam, we could go no farther and would have to tender to shore. Smaller vessels can go into Belém and even proceed up the channel into the main channel. So we got to ride a half hour in our lifeboat/tender to the pier ashore. There we climbed the ramp and walked the length of the pier, looking down at fishing boats, launches and riverboats lying on the mudbanks awaiting higher tide. Past fish mongers with piles of today's catch on tables, filleting and chopping and chattering with the morning customers.

Our tour bus took us through the town and to the city of Belém, a 45 minute ride. This gave a glimpse at industry, housing, schools and such with narration by our guide. When we came to a halt in the city waterfront the temp was about 88 and the sun being equatorial. Today's expedition was to be an introduction to fruits and herbs of Amazonia so we headed for the Ver o Peso (Check the weight) market. On the street we got a lesson in nuts with a vendor cracking away.

Into the covered food court we found perhaps a hundred little kitchens with counters and people coming and going for/from a fast food lunch of fried fish or pasta of fruit and so on. This was a treat for the nose. Into the fruit market and much to see and smell. Actually the entire place has quite an odor which mixes the heavy river air with fruits, herbs, fish, cooking oils and whatever is on the ground. It is easy to find the market, we had been advised; just follow your nose. In the fruit market (covered as well) are small stands selling amazonian nuts and fruit from small stands. The nut sellers are cracking and shelling nuts, packaging and stacking. Our guide took us from stand to stand and explained many of the fruits to us and provided samples as well. Those of us who have been missing good fresh fruit lately (the ship's fruit is no longer looking fresh and the variety is down to 3 or 4 kinds. We even had canned peaches one day.), this was a mouth watering event and soon we were loading our shopping bags with mango's, star fruit and other finds.

nuts

Then next door into the meat and seafood market. Here the pungent smells really got one's attention. Sausages and rolls of pork sat piled on shelves. Huge mounds of shrimps, sorted, and piles of dried fish were in another section. 

 

dried fish

shrimp

shrimp

Then we came across the pepper sellers with the Amazon's hottest peppers. Another section featured live rabbits, guinea pigs, chickens, ducks, geese and probably more that I didn't see.

red and yellow peppers

medicines

We stopped for an exotic fruit smoothie, or I should say we stopped. While a few of our party tried the juice, I ,being suspicious of the sanitary situation, went off to chat with the police following us. These are tourist police in training and one spoke a little English. We also had a large bodyguard trailing us.

After discovering an ice cream stand nearby and sampling the best chocolate ice cream yet, we left the new waterfront and the Ver o Peso markets and boarded a river boat. This took us up the channel, past the city and across the river to an island and the Saldosa Maloca restaurant. There, on this platform built on pilings over the river and shore, we observed again fruits of the area and were served a lunch of these fruits along with 3 different types of Amazon river fish. The beer was cold and the lunch a treat of new flavors.

We had a couple of heavy rain showers pass over us and when we returned across the river the sky remained cloudy. When we arrived back at Icoaracy to board our tender a thunderstorm struck and a heavy downpour ensued. The young people playing football on the mudflats played a little in the rain then gave up. The stairs from the street to the pier became a waterfall. Our tender disappeared in the heavy rain and ended up a couple of miles down river. Another tender was dispatched for us and we finally got back aboard, though wet and tired. 

futbol, football, in the rain

from the pier; rain approaching

As a result of this heavy rain I have added another first to my collection of travel oddities; we shared the pier's tiny rain shelter with a very wet and very determined amazonian dog.

At 1805 we had our pilots back aboard (2 now), pulled our hook and headed back out the way we came, heading down river to the Atlantic. The float plan is to head back out to the Atlantic side, steer North for awhile then re-enter the Amazon via the Northern channel.

At Sea off North Coast of Brazil's horn

Day 51

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Another day at sea which is most welcome. The sea is choppy but is following us so the motion of the ship is easy. We are past the horn of Brazil and heading Northwesterly off the coast for the Pará River.

Our Captain has advised us that tonight at about 2015 hours we should meet the estuary of the Pará river and notice a change of water color. The ship will have to cross a sand bar which we will cross at 19 knots at highest tide. We should expect some vibration caused by the resonance of the waters thrust by our propellers between sea/river bottom and the ship's bottom. Once inside the channel, we will slow to about 12 knots and proceed up river, much like the approach into Buenas Aires.

The company hosted a reception and lunch for the frequent-floaters passengers. Everyone who has attained a certain level of spending, er, days, on the line is presented with a medal and gets a photo taken with the Captain and the Hotel Manager. After a hundred or so people were so recognized, the free chanpagne consumed, the herd rumbled aft to the dining room for a limited menu brunch. One more speech and the feeding began.

Dinner was in the Pinnacle tonight for steak, crisp salads and excellent service. We have excellent service as well in the main dining room but the food there is plain.

A quiet evening at sea and the anticipated vibration crossing the bar was not felt. Once in the river channel we slowed, as predicted, and the ship so quiet she felt as if at anchor.

1400 report: 00° 56.63'S and 044°41.08'W. (Yup, just below the Equator.) Depth 30m, Sea 2, Course 305°. Speek 19.8 knots, Water and air 28c, 82F. (I still don't believe this.) Wind E 17k (5), Humidity 72%. Distance of voyage 13,233, Noon to 1400 418 nm. Sunrise 0607, sunset 1815.

Fortaleza, Brazil

Day 50

Fortaleza, Brazil

Coming toward Fortaleza this morning we could first pick out the high rise hotels and apartments. That indicates a city of size, which is correct as this city has a population of some 3 million. There is a man made harbor of a couple of breakwaters. We tied up at 0805 port side to the pier, which is our side of the ship. Our view was, well, commercial again. We enjoyed a brief rain shower rinsing the boat just before we left for a day of adventure. This is another working pier but we were at the innermost part so people could walk to the gate, but there was nothing outside to walk to. A shuttle bus was provided for passengers and crew to use to be taken downtown and dropped at the information center, 2 blocks from a market. Not an easy situation if one needed to shop for something and not a convenient port for crew.

view from our deck

Again we opted for a tour of the city to get an overview and maybe see something special. Again the stampede (following line crashers) left us in the back of the bus so I couldn't see or hear much. We caught drive by glimpses of seashore, housing and a few small mom and pop businesses and I was able to pick up now and then some of the info being related by our guide. Fortunately, our guide was very good. This being a Sunday the businesses were closed and many streets empty. A few streets had Sunday market which were filled with people and kiosks.

Our stops for the day included the Catedral Metroplitana, Mercado Central (4 story artisan market), the 102 year old Teatro Jose de Alencar and finally the beach. The beach was not busy, yet but there were many people about. Night time the beachfront is very busy, we were told. The Brazilians love their beaches and they love to party.

East beachfront

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Apartments

business district & shopping

Catedral (Cathedral)

woman who begs for food $ (?) at Catedral

Sunday street shopping

typical street scene Sunday

homeless here too

Along West beaches & hotel row

Two of our shipmates were mugged in Fortaleza, one was hit and one was held up at knife point. A camera was taken from the first and a wallet from the second.

Back at the ship by 1310 we had had enough and with only 1 hour until the last shuttle and 2 hours before “all aboard” we decided to remain. Fortunately the strike did not resume so we were cast off at 1653. Departure provided those on the port side of the ship the side we are on, with a fine panorama of the city and the beach area.

Noon report: 03° 42.70'S and 038° 28.50'W. Distance traveled 12,816. Noon to noon 316nm. Wind 22k. (6). Humidity 72% (This is remaining the same so I suspect this data as well as sea and air temp.) Sunrise 0541. Sunset 1752.