Ushuaia, Beagle Channel East, Cape Horn, Darwin Channel

Day 28; 2 February

Ushuaia, Beagle Channel East, Cape Horn, Darwin Channel

We awoke to a quiet ship still secured to the pier in Ushuaia. What had delayed our departure last night? We are supposed to be on our way to Cape Horn. Just before 0800 the bridge announced the cause for the delay. It seems there had been a fault a couple of days ago in the ship's fire detection system. The problem had been located an a part ordered. That part was to come from Norway. The technician to install and test the part was to come from France. Both the part and the technician were en route and had been expected yesterday. However........strong winds had interfered with the progress resulting in both technician and part being delayed in Buenas Aires. Happily (stated the voice from the bridge) both technician and part were in the air heading for Ushuaia and should have things wrapped up by noon. (Cue more photos of the Ushuaia waterfront.) The Argentinians happily permitted us ashore again anticipating soaring sales in the shops. We obliged and made a run to the grocery store for a $10 binge buying chimichurri and Malbec, a quick stop at a woolen goods shop for a shawl, clothing store for a jacket and Maté bowl and a stone shop for a penguin. Back on board by 1145. Waiting. Finally we got clearance and sailed at 1430.

It was cold and rainy so we stood watch from inside. Our schedule has been delayed to the point that seeing Cape Horn now had become borderline. And it was a borderline issue that made seeing the horn

even more remote. As we moved East in the Beagle Canal, between the Grand Island of Tierra del Fuego and Isla Navarino, we were required to stop at the small island village of Porto Williams to clear Chilean entry. Due to political boundaries, we have left Argentine waters and now entered Chilean waters again. For 40 minutes we sat motionless in the channel while the paperwork was completed. It was now a race for time. 50 miles of Beagle Canal to go before entering the South Atlantic. 

Port Williams

Penquins on island

The vista was again magnificient with the snow capped mountains behind us and now low islands and barren mountains along our flanks. We passed many sea lions and penguins in the waters and at one island observed a huge colony of penguins on its beaches. Dinner came to our cabin tonight so we could dash outside when we spied something of particular interest. At 1820 we passed the wreck of the freighter Snipe, a German missionary book ship sunk in 1988. 

Snipe

isla Terhalten

We followed the channel South along the West shore of Isla Navarino and out into the South Atlantic. Moving SSE with swells from the West giving us a good heel, we passed the islets of Terhalten, Seambre and Barnevelt then turned SW to pass Isla Deceit and more course change toward the SW to approach Cape Horn. At 2200 hours the wind was 41 knots from the West (Beaufort force 9) with gusts to 52 knots. Just before visibility closed for the night a freighter was spotted off the port quarter heading toward the horn and throwing great sheets of spray over her bow. At 2300 we quit our course to pass Cape Horn and took up a heading of 179° (South) going down and away from the Horn.

We had our gear well secured in our cabin, with the exception of one glass on a shelf, so when we settled down for the night the pitching did not cause a re-arrangement of our quarters. With our bunk rising and falling foot to head and the entertaining thoughts of Cape Horn behind us and ice somewhere ahead in all that fog, mist and spray, we slept.